Every December the centre of Zagreb turns into one long, slow evening walk. Here is the route we send our guests on, starting about ten minutes from the apartment door.
Start at Zrinjevac
The plane trees in Zrinjevac park are wrapped in lights from late November, and the old music pavilion becomes a small stage. Go just after dark, around five, when the stalls are open but the crowds are still thin. Get a mug of mulled wine and keep the mug; most stalls take it back for a small refund.
Cross the main square
From the park, walk north to Trg bana Jelačića. The big tree and the Advent wreath are here, and so is most of the noise. Don’t stop for long. Head up the steps behind the square towards Dolac market and the cathedral.
Dinner on Tkalčićeva, or back home
Tkalčićeva is lined with bars and small restaurants and stays busy late. If you would rather eat closer to the apartment, the Design District around Martićeva has some of the city’s best kitchens. We are happy to book a table for you; just message us in the afternoon.
A few practical notes
Advent weekends fill up fast, both in town and in the apartment. Bring warm shoes, the evenings are cold and the old town is all cobblestones. And leave room for fritule, the small fried doughnuts sold at almost every stall.
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