Zagreb is an easy city to eat well in, but a few local habits catch visitors out. Here is what we tell our guests.
Coffee is an activity, not a drink
Croatians sit over one coffee for an hour. Nobody will rush you, and ordering to go is still a little unusual. The café terrace is where the city does its socialising, especially Saturday late morning.
Lunch is the main meal
Many restaurants offer a gablec, a cheap set lunch, from around noon to three. It is the best-value meal of the day and often the most local. Dinner starts late, around eight, and kitchens in smaller places may close by ten.
What to order
Inland Croatia means roasted meats, štrukli (baked cheese pastry) and heavy, comforting dishes. The coast is a two-hour drive away, but the city’s fish restaurants get daily deliveries, so seafood is fresh too. For something lighter, the Design District around our street has the widest choice: vegan, Asian, modern Croatian.
Paying and tipping
Cards are accepted almost everywhere, but small bakeries and market stalls may be cash only. Tipping is not expected but appreciated; rounding up or leaving around 10% for good service is normal.
Markets
Dolac, just above the main square, is the big open-air market: fruit, vegetables, cheese and cured meats, best before noon. Kvaternikov trg market is closer to us and has the same produce with fewer tourists.
When you arrive we will give you our current list of places. It changes with the season, and we eat out a lot.
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